Holidays to Switzerland Travel Podcast Episode 27 Transcript

Discovering the delights of Schaffhausen, Rhine Falls and Stein am Rhein

You can see the full show notes and listen to this episode > here.

Announcer

Welcome to the Holidays to Switzerland Travel podcast. Your host is the founder of holidaystoswitzerland.com and the Switzerland Travel Planning Facebook group, Carolyn Schonafinger. On this podcast, Carolyn will be joined by a variety of guests who share their knowledge and love of the country to help you plan your dream trip to Switzerland.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Welcome to episode 27. The city The city of Scaffhausen may be best known to non-Europeans for its proximity to the Rhine Falls, which are Europe’s biggest waterfall but there are plenty of other reasons for visiting this attractive city, too. Schaffhausen has a rich history dating back to the Middle Ages, when it was an important trade city, thanks to its position on the banks of the Rhine River. The prosperity of the city over the ensuing years has left the old town adorned with some beautiful buildings, many of which are decorated with frescoed facades and auriol windows, which were a real status symbol back in the day. I was lucky enough to visit Schaffhausen and the Rhine Falls very briefly a number of years ago, and I have really fond memories of the city, so much so that I was planning to return for a few days in 2020 and explore it even further. Unfortunately, that visit remains on hold for the time being.

Carolyn Schönafinger

But if we can’t visit ourselves at the moment, who could be better than to take us on a virtual tour of Schaffhausen, the Rhine Falls, and the nearby mediaeval town of Stein am Rhein, than a local? Patricia Seif from Schaffhausenland Tourism is my special guest today, and she is going to tell us all about this attractive part of Switzerland.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Thank you for joining me today, Patricia. It’s lovely to have you here to learn more about Schafhausen and the whole canton. Can you start by telling us a little bit about yourself, please?

Patricia Seif

Yes, of course. Hi, my name is Patricia. I live in Schaffhausen and I work for the local tourist office. But I’m also a tour guide, showing the people around the lovely area. Originally, I’m from the Eastern part of Switzerland, where I grew up in the Valley of the Rhine in the canton of St. Gallen. As a former tourist person and a travel agent, I have travelled a lot in my whole life, and I’m addicted to it, and I just love tourism a lot. I spent about 10 or more years of my life abroad. The last eight, I was in London, living in London. From there, I moved straight to Schaffhausen.

Carolyn Schönafinger

That would have been quite a big change.

Patricia Seif

Yes, but a lovely change, I must admit.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah, good. And was there a particular reason that you decided to move to Schaffhausen?

Patricia Seif

Oh, it was due to work, my husband’s work. Schaffhausen is in a lovely distance for commuting to Zurich. So we thought it’s a nice way to stay a bit outside in the country but still have all the possibilities to go to Zurich and so on.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah, wonderful. So Schaffhausen Tourism is responsible not just for the city called Schaffhausen, but also the whole canton of that name. So can you tell those listeners who aren’t familiar with Schaffhausen, whereabouts in Switzerland it’s located?

Patricia Seif

Yes, well, the canton of Schaffhausen is in the north of Switzerland. And In fact, it’s the northernmost Canton of Switzerland, right by the borders of Germany. So as an interesting matter of fact, we share more borders with Germany than we share with Switzerland. Now, 80 % are shared with the Germans rather than the Swiss.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Okay, that’s interesting. And what’s the size of the canton? Is it very big or is it one of the smaller ones?

Patricia Seif

It’s one of the smaller ones. I’d say the whole population of the canton is around 83,000 people, among which 37 live in the capital, which is also called Schaffhausen.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Okay. Okay. And what are some of the other towns and villages that people might have heard of?

Patricia Seif

Well, they’re all much smaller, of course. The second largest would be Neuhausen at the Rhine Falls, famous Rhine Falls. We’re We’re talking about later, I guess. Sure.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Absolutely.

Patricia Seif

And of course, Stein am Rhein, the small pretty jewel, further up the river.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah. Wonderful. Okay, so let’s start with the city of Schaffhausen. Can you tell us a bit about the city and its history and some of its unique characteristics?

Patricia Seif

Yes, of course. Well, Schafhausen has a long history, goes back a long time in history.

Patricia Seif

In the year 1045, it was actually put into the rank of a city.

Patricia Seif

It was very important during the Middle Ages when the business on the river was important. It became of great importance for business and trade.

Patricia Seif

In those days, mainly salt, the business with the salt, which was shipped down from as far as Bavaria to Schaffhausen on the water.

Patricia Seif

Then it was brought through town of Schaffhausen, further down to after the Rheinfalls, where it then was shipped back into the boats, were brought back into the boats and continued its journey.

Patricia Seif

And of course, this is shown everywhere in the town that we have a very long history with beautiful houses, beautiful architecture, and so on.

Carolyn Schönafinger

And there’s some… I remember, I’ve only visited Schaffhausen for half a day, but I remember one of the things that stood out as those beautiful oriel windows. So how many? There’s some record. They’re the most number of Oriel windows in Switzerland. Is that right?

Patricia Seif

Yes, you’re right.

Patricia Seif

In fact, we are also called the City of Orioles. We have around 171 Orioles, mainly in the in the Old Town. And as you could probably imagine in those days, in the old days, it was a symbol of stages.

Patricia Seif

Such an oriel was very expensive. There’s so-called balconies outside the facade. They actually extend your size of the house.

Patricia Seif

The houses in those days were very small, so they could add some extra space with such an oriel. And also it was prestige because such an extension could cost almost half of the house price.

Patricia Seif

So they wanted to show up, show off and obviously keep up with the Joneses.

Carolyn Schönafinger

And they’re just decorated beautifully, aren’t they? Some of them really are.

Patricia Seif

Yes. If you walk around the town, they’re mainly in the centre because it was also the way to see and not to be seen, of course, with people sitting inside.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Lovely. So what are some of the other highlights of Schaffhausen that someone visiting should be sure to check out?

Patricia Seif

Well, it’s certainly a very old, as I said, and pretty town.

Patricia Seif

We have a very accessible, old town.

Patricia Seif

You can walk around within easy reach with everything. You don’t need a car. In fact, it’s car-free, most of it, which makes it rather more charming. I would say you’d start with This is the heart of town, the Fronwag Platz, where you find it was the old marketplace, and it is actually the heart of town, as I said, people meeting there. We have the Fronwag Tower at the end of the square, where you find a very interesting old clock dating back to the 16th century on top of the tower.

Patricia Seif

It’s a astronomical clock, which has about 10 different functions, and they still work up to now.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Amazing. There’s a fortress, too, just on the edge of town, isn’t there?

Patricia Seif

You’re right.

Patricia Seif

It’s the Munot.

Patricia Seif

The fortress is on top of the hill. You can go up by stairs through the vineyards, which is also very picturesque.

Patricia Seif

From the top of the roof, the roof terrace of this fortress, It’s dating back also to the 16th century.

Patricia Seif

You have a beautiful, excellent view across the town as well as the Harbour area and the river. So it’s worthwhile doing it, and most people go up there and enjoy. There’s also the Monastery of All Saints, which I really like myself. It’s a former Monastery that is now open to the public with some very pretty herbal gardens where you can go wander about and relax. And one of the oldest cloisters in Switzerland that belongs to that part is also very pretty right in the middle of town.

Carolyn Schönafinger

I do remember wandering through that herb garden. It was very, very, very relaxing and beautiful. Now, are there some local specialties that people can only find in Schaffhausen?

Patricia Seif

Well, probably the most known is the Bölletünne which is a type of quiche made with lots of onions. Onions is what we call the Böhm in Schaffhausen, German, or It’s good.

Patricia Seif

Well, as I say, it’s similar to a quiche.

Patricia Seif

You can eat it hot, cold. You will get it in most of the restaurants or bakery shops. I personally also like We eat a lot of fish here around the area, some of it from the river, some of it from the Lake Constance area. We call it fish Knuspoli, and it’s very similar to what you would call the fish and chips.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Fish and chips is a bit easier to pronounce.

Patricia Seif

You can imagine.

Carolyn Schönafinger

What about, isn’t there a biscuit or a cookie Yes.

Patricia Seif

One of the bakery shops has a very typical Schaffhausen zunge, which is a sweet biscuit filled with some, well, I guess hazelnut cream. It’s called Schaffhausen zunge, like the tongue, because it’s the shape of a tongue. And it’s really sweet and nice, and people usually buy it when they come here. Okay. It’s a secret recipe, so you won’t find I need anywhere else, I guess.

Carolyn Schönafinger

A good souvenir then to buy. Now, you mentioned before the Rhine Falls, and I guess that’s one of the main reasons that brings people to Schaffhausen. So what can you tell us about the falls and why are they so well known?

Patricia Seif

Well, I guess they’re the largest waterfall in Europe, not in terms of size, but in terms amount of water quantity. Now, especially in the summer, they can reach up to 700,000 litres per second, which is a huge amount of water. So they’re very, very impressive. Of course, you can visit them all year round. I also like the winter months when it’s a bit more quiet down there in the area. They’re still on, as I said. They’re on 24/7, and 365 days a year, so you can visit them all day. I personally like the winter months because, as I said, it’s more quiet, and also the water and the colours of the water is very different. It’s all in pastel colours, so it’s very beautiful. The summer months are more popular, of course, because there is a lot more water, and you We can go there. They’re accessible from two sides. We have the Schaffhausen side where you can arrive and have free access, and we have the other side, the Zurich side, where you would pay a small entrance fee to get there. But both sides are very impressive. They’re easy to reach either from Schaffhausen town by train or bus.

Patricia Seif

You’re there within 15 in minutes with a bus or public transport from the station, main station of Schaffhausen. Or you could even walk there along the river, which is a very nice walk. It takes around an hour, an hour and 15 minutes. It’s a pleasant walk. We often recommend it to the people to walk one way and then maybe take the public transport back. Or you could arrive by car or motorbike. Many people arrive to buy a motorbike in the summer or even bikes.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah. Okay. And there’s a boat that you can take out. When I visited Schaffhausen, I did the boat to the Falls briefly, and I’m not sure which side we went from, but it’s the side with Laufen Castle?

Patricia Seif

It’s the Side with Schaffhausen. Schaffhausen? Yes.

Carolyn Schönafinger

So that’s the Side that you can get a boat and go out to the big rock where the falls come over.

Patricia Seif

Exactly. You can get the tickets down there. There’s a ticket office straight at the Falls. You can get your ticket and choose the type of boat ride you want, either to the rock or around the basin or with audio guides, whatever.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah, good. So there’s plenty of choice.

Patricia Seif

Yeah, but it’s also nice just to walk around. There’s a little round trip around the Falls from one side to another across the bridge. And it’s beautiful, as I said, there are many different angles to have a look at them.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah, good.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Now, another much loved destination in that canton is Stein am Rhein. It’s quite a mediaeval town and also has some lovely facades. What else can you tell us about Stein am Rhein?

Patricia Seif

Well, I think, as you said, it’s a very old city. It has also a very long history. It has even more painted facades than Schaffhausen. I think the whole centre is very pretty with all the different architectures, mediaeval architecture. Most of the area is also car-free, so you can stall about and have a look at the houses, sit outside in one of the many cafés and have a glass of wine. So it’s a lovely atmosphere. I would personally also recommend to visit the Monastery of St. George, St. Georgen. And my favourite is the Museum of Lindwurm, which is an old former mansion from the 19th century, where you can see how life went on in those days.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Okay. The town is quite famous for its Christmas market, too, I believe.

Patricia Seif

Yes, well, yes, of course. As As I said, as it’s nestled along the river, it’s very pretty to sit by the water and look at the boats go by. So it’s a popular destination for a day trip from Schaffhausen. You can either reach it by boat or by car or by public transport, such as trains.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Okay, so that was one of the other questions I was going to ask you is about, because obviously the Rhine goes through the Canton and past Schaffhausen Schaffhausen and Stein am Rhein, what are the opportunities for people to take boat trips and whereabouts can they go? Can they go further than those two towns?

Patricia Seif

Yes.

Patricia Seif

Well, during the summer months and well into autumn, we have these leisure boats that run on a regular base from Schaffhausen to Stein am Rhein and even further up to Lake Constance.

Patricia Seif

So you could also visit Lake Constance area during the same time. The boats operate. You just buy the tickets while you’re on the boat or just before you get on it. It’s a lovely journey. To me, it’s one of the best journeys along a river because it’s very natural. There’s hardly any settlements on the way, so it’s pretty, very natural. You can also go by canoe, if you It’s a popular thing to use or to rent a canoe and then paddle along the river or float down, which is nice. Many people also go for a swim in the water. In the summer months, it’s up to about 23 degrees, so it’s also nice. It’s recommended not to go further than Schaffhausen because, of course, the right course. It’s the same for the boats. We are often asked whether you can take a boat from Schaffhausen to the Rheinfals. You can’t.

Carolyn Schönafinger

No, just in case. Just in case.

Patricia Seif

You missed the last exit.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Now, you mentioned at the start that Schaffhausen is very easily accessible from Zurich. And I know a lot of people who are visiting Switzerland, that they might be staying in Zurich and they do a day trip to Schaffhausen and the Falls and Stein am Rhein. But why would you encourage them to stay longer rather than just do a day trip?

Patricia Seif

Well, there’s a lot to see and to do. I mean, if you stay for a few days, you really get the feeling of the town and the area, which is nice. You get to know the people, very nice people. We are all very friendly and welcoming. You can do day trips into the countryside, either by bike or walking. There are a lot of possibilities for little hikes around the area. So I’d say come and stay a few days, really.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Okay. And you mentioned before about when you go up to the fortress that you can go through the vineyards. What wine is grown there? And can people go somewhere and taste it?

Patricia Seif

Yes. Well, actually, the Schaffhausen area is famous for its red wine, a Pinot Noir, as we call it.

Patricia Seif

And in the country, in the little villages around Schaffhausen, in the canton of Schaffhausen, we have a lot of wineries that can also be visited, where you can also have some wine tasting, which is always very nice and very recommendable.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Okay. And through your position at the tourist office, you mentioned that you’re a tour guide. What different tours are available to people when they come into the tourist office?

Patricia Seif

Well, we can arrange some private tours for people who would like to see the city. We have walks through the town. They’re all mainly walking tours because as I said, a lot of it is car-free, so it wouldn’t make sense to drive. We also have themed tours like going back to the Middle Ages, where you are, where your guide is maybe a night man, watchman, or whether you have a lady who explains you about when she was in charge of all the fountains of the town, things like that. So there are more scene tours. And of course, we also have tours at the Rheinfals. Some people want to know more about the history there and why they’re there, etc.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Do people need to book those tours in advance, or do they operate? Do some tours operate all the time during the summer months?

Patricia Seif

Well, usually it’s best to book it in advance if it’s a private tour. But during the summer months, we often have tours on a Saturday afternoon, actually at two o’clock. We always have a city tour where you just can come and get the tickets from the office. All other tours is best to to pre-book as a group.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah. Okay. Now, before we finish up, are there any final tips or fun facts that you could share with us about Schaffhausen?

Patricia Seif

Well, as I said, I would certainly recommend a dip into the water while you’re here. And one of the really nice This is where you could do that and be very safe is, for example, the Rhybadi, which is a old fashioned lido. It’s all made of wood and built on stilt. It’s more than 100 years old and has a lot of history, there you can actually swim in pools within the water of the Rhine. So it’s very safe and nice, and you can have a drink or even a light meal there. So it’s a nice atmosphere, and also to meet local people. It’s good. I would certainly recommend that. And then, of course, I would also recommend to try the local wine, as I said before, as I mentioned. We have a lot of lovely places where you can have a glass of wine outside. Dining al fresco in the summer months is very popular, especially in the car-free zones where you can sit in a boulevard café and enjoy the people and sit there. So these are my favourite things to do in the summer.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah, lovely.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Very good.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Now, where can people find out more about Schaffhausen and all the tourism? What’s your website?

Patricia Seif

We have a very good website, actually, very interesting, which is Schafhausen. Www.Schaffhausen.ch, or you better look it up again. And also, do come and visit us at the various tourist offices. One in Schaffhausen, main town. There is one in Stein am Rhein and another one at the Falls, where we have a lot of information for you.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Wonderful.

Patricia Seif

I can give you some tips and hints, and we are happy to welcome you.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Yeah, that’s great. I think it’s always good when you go to a new place to go straight to the tourist office and get the best tips straight from the mouths of the locals who know it so well. Wonderful. Well, thank you very much, Patricia. I’ll put a link to the website that you mentioned in the show notes.

Patricia Seif

Yes, do check it again.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Absolutely. No, I’m sure you got it right, but I will list that so people can click and get more information. And hopefully, they’ll be heading to the tourist office soon to see you and get your tips.

Carolyn Schönafinger

After listening to Patricia talk about Schaffhauserland, you really get a sense of her knowledge and her passion for the area. Isn’t it wonderful to have such a passionate local assisting visitors when they come to the tourist office and taking them on guided tours of the city? My chat with Patricia had me reminiscing about my long ago trip so I dug out some photos of my visit to Schaffhausen, and I tell you, I got the biggest surprise. There in my photos was the local tour guide who showed me around that day. Can you guess who it was? Yes, it was Patricia Seif. What an amazing coincidence. It just goes to show what a small world it is we live in, even though it may not feel like it in these COVID times. As Patricia said, in the interview, don’t just visit Schaffhausen on a day trip from Zurich.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Stay a while longer and soak up the city’s vibes, taste the local specialties, and drink the local wine, and appreciate the beautiful scenery.

Carolyn Schönafinger

And be sure to pop into the tourist office when you visit and say hi to Patricia and her colleagues. Before I go, I’d like to give a bit of a shout out to Judy B from the USA. Judy left a lovely review on Apple podcast. She said, Love the podcast. I love that the information is clearly presented. I like the guests that are interviewed, too. There is a lot of valuable information for anyone travelling to Switzerland. If you have any questions and post them on their Facebook page, they get right back to you. Thank you for all you do.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Thanks, Judy. That’s a lovely comment and lovely review. Appreciate that very much.

Carolyn Schönafinger

If you, too, have enjoyed the podcast, we’d love it if you left a review also. It helps others to find the podcast so that they can benefit from all the tips and advice and information that we share in the podcast as well.

Carolyn Schönafinger

Thanks again. And I look forward to chatting with you next time.

Announcer

Thank you so much for listening. For more great resources on planning a trip to Switzerland, make sure you visit holidays2switzerland. Com, where you’ll find trip planning tips, destination guides, information on transport, including including Swiss rail passes, and much more. You’re also encouraged to join the Switzerland Travel Planning Group on Facebook, where you can ask questions and chat to other past and future travellers to Switzerland. You’ll find show notes from today’s episode at holidaystoswitzerland.com/podcast, and be sure to subscribe to the Holidays to Switzerland Travel podcast so you never miss an episode.

You can see the full show notes and listen to this episode > here.